本文為翻譯文章，文件段落格式依原始文章編排，中文放在原文段落之上方便大家對照。因為我的英文很破，中文的文筆又不好，所以如果有翻得不通順或翻錯的地方，就再麻煩各位多多指教，直接留言或私訊都可以，請不必客氣。
作者：Michael Levy | PUBLISHED November 17, 2017
翻譯：陳震宇 (若有任何問題請來信：maurice.chen67@gmail.com)
(又)完攀了：倉上慶大成為世界上第五位自由攀登完攀The Nose的攀岩者
It goes (again): Keita Kurakami Makes Fifth Free Ascent of the Nose
這位以大膽的傳攀紀錄聞名於日本的攀岩者，如今已躋身全球攀岩菁英之列。 The Japanese climber, known for bold traditional ascents in his own country, joins an elite club of climbers with his ascent.
優勝美地的酋長岩。相片來源：Michael Levy。
El Capitan, Yosemite. Photo: Michael Levy.
Lynn Hill、Tommy Caldwell、Bath Rodden、以及Jorg Verhoeven：上列名單是在過去這25年來成功以自由攀登完攀The Nose (VI 5.14a) 的少數世界頂尖攀岩者，同時也是世上最優秀的大岩壁自由攀登的攀岩者。
現在，這份名單又多了一位倉上慶大。
11/13，星期三，這位日本攀岩者倉上慶大在優勝美地的酋長岩上，終於順利完成史上第五次的the Nose自由攀登完攀紀錄。他的這一次嘗試，是在繩伴佐藤裕介的支援下完成的。完攀後，倉上在自己的Instagram上寫道：「我完攀所有的繩距了!!! 從去年開始到現在總共試了四次，每次都從平地起攀，但每次都會碰到新的困難 (當然啦，最難的那幾段繩距真的是有夠難！)。這條全世界最有名的大岩壁路線真不是蓋的。」
Lynn Hill, Tommy Caldwell, Beth Rodden, Jorg Verhoeven: the list of individuals who have freed the Nose (VI 5.14a) is a small who’s who of some of the best big wall free climbers of the past 25 years.
Now add Keita Kurakami to that list.
On Wednesday, November 13, the Japanese climber Kurakami made just the fifth free ascent of the Nose, on El Capitan in Yosemite. He was supported on the attempt by Yusuke Sato. Reporting his success on Instagram, Kurakami writes, “So I [free climbed] all pitches!!!I climbed up 4 times from ground from last year. But I found some difficulties every time. (Of course, the crux pitches is so hard!) Needless to say this route is known [as] the most famous big wall route in the world.”
The Nose第一次的首攀是在1958年，由Warren Harding與他的團隊一起完成。Lynn Hill則是在1993年以自由攀登完攀，並於隔年再次以自由攀登的方式在單日內完攀所有繩距。2005年，Tommy Caldwell與Beth Rodden成為第二位與第三位自由攀登完攀者，接著是來自荷蘭的攀岩者Jorg Verhoeven，在2014年成為第四位自由攀登完攀者。
The Nose was first climbed by Warren Harding and team in 1958. Lynn Hill completed the first free ascent in 1993, before returning the following year to free it in a single day. Tommy Caldwell and Beth Rodden became the second and third people to free the route in 2005, and the Dutch climber Jorg Verhoeven became the fourth free ascenstionist in 2014.
倉上在十一月初便已順利完成了第一個困難繩距「Great Roof」(5.13d)，但由於手指受傷的關係，他被迫延後他的計畫以等待傷口復原。在去年嘗試完攀這條路線時，他就已經學到了耐性 - 一點一滴地將龐大的路線資訊去蕪存菁，並耐心等候時機降臨。「就是要努力不懈啊。」倉上慶大在Instagram上解釋道。「這是我這次能夠順利完攀這條路線最重要的關鍵」。
Kurakami freed the first crux pitch, the “Great Roof” (5.13d), in early November, but after tearing a hole in his finger, had to postpone his siege on the wall and allow his skin to heal. He had learned patience working the route over the past year, though—refining beta and waiting for conditions. “It’s just effort and patience,” Kurakami explains on Instagram. “That’s the most important things for this time on this route.”
雖然他在美國攀岩圈裡沒沒無聞，但倉上卻有著令人咋舌的攀登紀錄。2015年，他在日本瑞牆山的摩埃石像岩面上，完成了一條長達250米，名為「千日の瑠璃 | Senjitsu-no Ruri (5.14a R/X)」的大膽路線，而佐藤裕介 (倉上在嘗試the Nose時的繩伴) 也接著完成了第二次完攀 (Second Free Ascent)；隨後，他們兩人又回到該路線上，在一天之內再度完攀該路線。2016年四月，倉上在日本的湯川完成了一條名為「燈明 | The votive light (5.13d/14a R)」的傳攀路線。而今年 (2017) 春天，倉上在英國的德芳郡 (Devon) 完攀了James Pearson的首攀路線：The Walk of Life - 一條兇殘至極，讓Pearson評級為最困難的E12的傳攀路線。
Though he is a relative unknown in the U.S. climbing scene, Kurakami has an impressive resume. In 2015, he made the first ascent of Senjitsu-no Ruri (5.14a R/X), a bold 250-meter line on Mt. Mizugaki’s Mouai Face. Kurakami made the first free ascent, Yusuke Sato (Kurakami’s partner for the Nose, as well) made the second free ascent soon after, and then the two returned and climbed the route free in a single day. In April 2016, Kurakami established another protected trad line in Yukawa, Japan, called The Votive Light (5.13d/14a R). More recently, in spring 2017, Kurakami climbed James Pearson’s The Walk of Life , a notorious gear-protected test piece in Devon, U.K that Pearson originally gave an E12 grade.
Also read Jorg Verhoeven — Dihedral Wall Interview
專訪：倉上慶大自由攀登The Nose
Interview: Keita Kurakami on Freeing the Nose
Rock and Ice 與這位日本攀岩者取得聯繫，請他聊聊他於本週稍早在優勝美地成功以自由攀登方式完攀the Nose的經過。 Rock and Ice caught up with the Japanese climber to talk about his free ascent of the Nose, in Yosemite, earlier this week.
倉上慶大正在他的岩壁帳平台上休息。相片來源：倉上慶大。
Kurakami resting on his portaledge. Photo: Courtesy of Keita Kurakami.
繼Lynn Hill、Tommy Caldwell、Beth Rodden、以及Jorg Verhoeven之後，倉上慶大在今年
的11月13日正式成為第五位自由攀登完攀the Nose的攀岩者。Rock and Ice透過email與倉上取得聯繫，希望能報導更多關於他這次的完攀紀錄的更多細節。
ON NOVEMBER 13, Keita Kurakami became just the fifth person to free climb the Nose, following Lynn Hill, Tommy Caldwell, Beth Rodden and Jorg Verhoeven. Rock and Ice caught up with Kurakami via email to find out a bit more about his experience.
倉上慶大在優勝美地酋長岩 the Nose 的頂端。相片來源：倉上慶大。
Keita Kurakami on the Nose, El Capitan, Yosemite. Photo: Courtesy of Keita Kurakami.
你在the Nose上練了多久來準備這次的自由攀登計畫？
從去年開始，超過20天以上吧。大部分時間都是花在那些困難的繩距上，Great Roof和Changing Corners，其他繩距大部分都是直接完攀 (Onsight)。我總共嘗試了四次，都是從平地起攀。在Changing Corners那一段，我從酋長岩頂端架了一條固定繩，好讓我可以在試路線和練動作時可以休息。
How long were you working on the Nose to prepare a free ascent?
It was over 20 days from last year. Mostly I spent it for crux pitches, Great roof and Changing corners. [For] other pitches, I mostly onsighted. [Ultimately], I climbed the Nose four times from the ground. [For] Changing Corners, I fixed a rope to the top of El Cap so that I could rest after working it and trying it.
這次的完攀你花了多久時間？在那幾段困難繩距上試了幾次？
我在Great Roof那一段花了兩天，Changing Corners那一段花了一天才完攀 (Redpoint)。但我花了好幾天用Toprope在這兩段繩距上練習。
The ascent itself – how long did it take you? How many tries for the crux pitches?
I took two days in Great roof, and a day in Changing corners on my redpoint attempt. But I spent many days and times working them on top rope.
倉上攀登Changing Corners。相片來源：倉上慶大。
Kurakami on the Changing Corners pitch. Photo: Courtesy of Keita Kurakami.
對你來說最艱苦的過程是什麼？
就是把超過50公斤的東西弄到岩壁上！
What was the most difficult part of the process for you?
Just hauling over 50 kilograms of stuff!.
和你爬過的那些超難路線，例如燈明 (5.13d/14a R) 和千日の瑠璃 (5.14a R/X) 相比，你對the Nose有什麼感覺？
這問題很難回答，我沒辦法將它們放在一起互相比較。因為那些路線太可怕了，但the Nose沒那麼可怕。Changing Corners有點像是很難的高抱石路線，剛好符合我的攀登風格。我很享受這幾條路線帶給我的一些有趣體驗，那是攀岩最迷人的元素之一，我覺得啦。
How did the Nose compare to some of your other hardest climbs, like The Votive Light (5.13d/14a R) and Senjitsu-no Ruri (5.14a R/X)?
That’s a very difficult question. I can’t compare it. Because those routes are so bold but the Nose isn’t so bold. Changing corners is like a hard, high boulder. It’s just my style. I enjoyed some interesting experiences from each [of these] routes. It’s one of the most charming things about climbing, I think.
你的繩伴佐藤裕介，是不是也快要可以自由攀登完攀the Nose了？
對啊！等雨停之後我就要上去幫他確保了！你們應該很快就會看到第六位完攀者！
Was Yusuke Sato, your partner on the Nose, close to freeing the route as well?
Yeah! I will go back there to belay him after the rain! You [might] see the 6th ascent soon!
佐藤裕介完攀Great Roof。相片來源：倉上慶大。
Yusuke Sato sending the Great Roof pitch. Photo: Courtesy of Keita Kurakami.
未來還有計畫嘗試自由攀登酋長岩的其他路線嗎？
當然！我希望能像那些傳奇人物Lynn Hill和Tommy Caldwell一樣，可以在一天之內完攀the Nose。而且我想在這座巨大的花崗岩壁上嘗試更多困難的路線，因為在這次行程裡我所有的心思都只放在the Nose上。
Do you have any plans to try other El Cap free climbs in the future?
Of course! I hope to do the Nose free in a day like legendary climbers Lynn hill and Tommy caldwell. And I want to try more hard routes on the big stone, because I only concentrated on the Nose in my Yosemite visits...
最後終於完攀時，你心裡的感覺如何？
大家都知道，這條路線是舉世聞名的大岩壁路線，因此在我嘗試自由攀登時，就會碰到許多「不正常」的困難：一大堆攀岩者、從天而降的裝備、還有尿雨... 事實上，我在去年第一次嘗試之後就沒有很想再試一次了。
但我發現如果真的很想爬，總是有辦法解決這些鳥事的。今年我決定等天氣變冷的時候再來，並選擇稍微偏離路線的露宿地點，當然，在這一年裡我已經先為那些困難繩距做好了訓練。
所以努力和耐心，就是爬這條路線最重要的關鍵，我在the Nose上學到很多。
How did it feel to finally send the route?
This route is known as the most famous big wall route in the world. Therefore, there are some [unusual] difficulties to climbing it free. There are so many other climbers, gear falling and pee showers… Actually, I [wasn’t really looking forward] to trying it again after my time in Yosemite last year.
But I realized that if really wanted to climb it, I could find a solution [to these things]. This year I decided to visit in the cold season, I chose a bivy spot that deviated from the route a little, and of course I trained for crux pitches during the year.
So it just needed effort and patience. That’s the most important thing for this route. I learned many things from the Nose.
在成功完攀不久前，倉上在那些困難繩距上的練習過程中不慎傷了小指。相片來源：倉上慶大。
Kurakami shredded his pinky finger while working the crux pitches not long before his final redpoint attempt.
Photo: Courtesy of Keita Kurakami.